Gear
Guitars
Sterling by Ernie Ball Chambered Valentine Bigsby JV60CB
Neck+Bridge pickups: Pioneer Pope, i.e. the original and best “P&W humbucker” (500k pots)
Removed boost circuitry
BiggsFix for a shallower break angle over the bridge, Butchie Bar for easier string changes
“Les Paul” with modern features: stainless frets, 5 way switch, satin neck finish, carbon-reinforced neck for better truss rod stability, contoured heel, 2 knobs, better upper fret access, lightweight/chambered, belly cut)
Pickups: Seymour Duncan Seth Lover (500k pots)
Blind A/B between this guitar and a Les Paul with the same pickups
Veritas Orpheus
Neck+Bridge pickups: Pioneer Polecat, 250k pots
Fender Meteora Player Plus
Neck+Bridge: Fralin Fralin’tron
Removed 2nd tone knob from circuit, wired the 2 remaining pots to master volume, master tone
Veritas Texas Miracle African Series 2015
Neck+Bridge pickups: Lollar Special T
Bridge: Wilkinson cut sides
Saddles: Gotoh In-Tune
Fender Player Plus HSS Stratocaster (replaced a Suhr Classic S)
Bridge pickup: Suhr Thornbucker II
Fender Paramount PD-220E Dreadnought Acoustic (stock)
Guitar / Bass / Keys gear
Line 6 Helix
Fractal FM9 Turbo
Keys stuff
Novation Launchkey 61 keyboard
MainStage (Omnisphere, Serum, Keyscape, various Native Instruments plugins)
HX Stomp
2.5mm power cable (no adapters needed).
Run direct to FOH with 1/4” TRS to XLR male cables. If you want an XLR output with ground lift / phantom protection, the dbx DJDI is a solid inexpensive stereo DI.
Don’t waste your money on a $250 boutique line isolator. The music industry has been running line level devices direct to FOH for decades without them. Here is a level-matched blind A/B comparison I did between a $250 boutique line isolator and a $25 Livewire DI.
I do not recommend ever summing to mono as it can only introduce problems with phasing / chorusing / comb filtering if there is any modulation in the stereo image, very common in wet effects or stereo widening. You’re much better off just using one half of the stereo signal.
Pedalboard-friendly TRS insert cable for HXS’s stereo FX Loop
Studio Gear:
Acoustic Treatment (more important than any other piece of gear, speakers included):
Acoustic Fields 12” Carbon Panels for low end absorption down to 40hz.
DIY 6” broadband absorbers using Rockwool Safe n’ Sound (pre-made option)
DIY 18” square corner bass traps based on GIK Soffit Traps. (pre-made option)
Interface:
Lower cost option w/ SPDIF: Scarlett 8i6 3rd gen
SPDIF cables - I track guitars + bass through Helix/FM9 via SPDIF into my interface.
Studio Monitors (again, don’t neglect good acoustic treatment)
<$500: Kali LP-6/8
$500-$999: Kali IN-5
$1k-$2k: Focal Solo6 BE or Hedd Type 05 mk2
What I use: Hedd Type 07 mk2
TRS to XLR cables - balanced TRS out of the interface to balanced XLR input on the monitors.
Headphones: Ollo S5X (by far the best and flattest headphone in the $500 range, better than many >$1k pairs i.e. Audeze LCD-X Hifiman Sundara, etc)
Cheaper: Sennheiser HD600
Budget: Sony MDR7506
Misc
IEMs: 64Audio A12T (backup: 64Audio V6 Stage)
Low cost backup/alternative: KZ ZS10
Headphone amp: Neve RNHP
Strings: I primarily use Ernie Ball Coated 10-46 as I find they last longer and sound the same as Ernie Ball 10-46 Regular Slinky
Capos: G7 ART III
Strap Locks: Schaller S-Locks
Picks: Dunlop 0.60mm (orange)
Guitar Cases:
Guitar maintenance:
Nut Sauce (anti-friction for bridge and nut): https://amzn.to/2XybFtD
Fretboard oil: https://amzn.to/2yBvgRe
Anti-static polish (I live in a low-humidity area which makes static electricity noise an issue with Nitro finishes: https://amzn.to/3fYpOuE
Multi-tool: https://amzn.to/2B8ESE7
String winder drill bit: https://amzn.to/2XxtnO8
String stretcher: https://amzn.to/3evaCSl
String cutter: https://amzn.to/3YWQEaT
DeoxIT (best product I’ve found for cleaning pots): https://amzn.to/2Wv1oic
String Cleaner: Dunlop 65 or Fast Fret - when these dry out I apply some mineral oil to the pad, which is what these products are anyway
Soldering iron: https://amzn.to/3VE9eSp